Is there a better feeling than waking up at sea? To throw back the curtains and see the glistening blue waters staring back at you. And knowing that the only thing to do that day is explore the reefs, walls and wrecks below them. Well, I can confirm that there is no better feeling, especially when on a liveaboard in the Red Sea. In fact, it's how I spent each morning of my eight-night trip.
Let the adventure begin
After a direct flight from London to Hurghada and a quick 30-minute drive south, I found myself at my first stay: The Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh. Set over 48 acres, this India-meets-Mediterranean glamour hotel exudes serious luxury. With its own private stretch of beach, it wasn't hard to feel like a VIP - especially since I was kindly upgraded to one of the hotel's Grande Suites, which come with their own private pools. After a delicious fish curry (The Oberoi is known for its Indian cuisine), it was time to get some rest and look forward to a knockout breakfast (from the comfort of my room no less) comprised of eggs, ful medames (traditional stewed and spiced fava beans) bread and fruit. By midday, it was time to bid farewell to The Oberoi and travel two-and-a-half hours further south to Port Ghalib, to hop aboard the liveaboard.
Eat, sleep, dive, repeat
My first impression of the liveaboard was impressive. A 141ft yacht spread over four levels with plenty of longue areas and sundecks to relax in, it was the epitome of a floating hotel with clean, crisp sheets and even a nightly-turn down service. Expecting a porthole too, I was pleasantly surprised when I opened the door to my room and found a large window with sea views staring back at me. The first night was spent docked in Port Ghalib harbour, where I got to know the 20 fellow divers and crew on board. We departed the following morning and completed two check-out dives at Trombi and Mangrove, both known for their clear and calm waters; perfect for checking weights and testing camera gear. After a night dive at Mangrove, it was time to start the real itinerary: a cruise to Brother's Island for a couple of nights, followed by Daedalus and Elphinstone. Talk about "eat, sleep, dive, repeat".
Let's dive
A typical day began with a 6am wake-up call. After a quick coffee, light breakfast and thorough briefing from the cruise director, it was time for the dive. A spacious diving deck and helpful crew made this process a breeze. After the first dive, early morning efforts were rewarded with a buffet-style breakfast (including fresh omelettes, waffles and prepared fruit) before heading on the second dive of the day. Afternoons consisted of a long lunch, which always began with soup, followed by a section of meats, salads and something sweet. Any good diver knows not to head out with a full stomach, so the hours after were left to our own devices. I often headed to the sun loungers on the boat's upper decks. Dive three followed before another break to soak up the sun, read a book or edit our underwater photos. In the evening, your tastebuds were treated to another three-course extravaganza filled with freshly prepared dishes that could be easily catered to dietary needs. If a night dive was on the cards, we'd refrain from sampling the local beer and wine until later, but rest assured a hot chocolate and a warm towel would be waiting when you surfaced.
Brothers Island
Simply put, the diving was incredible. Brothers Island has some of the best wall dives, covered in soft corals, with the added chance of seeing the elusive thresher shark. Unfortunately, we didn't spot any, nor any hammerheads, which can be found here. But that didn't spoil the experience. In fact, one of my favourite dives of the week was of the shipwreck 'Numedia'. Bound for Calcutta, before hitting Brothers Island, it drops down from 12 metres to 80 metres. The wreck can be penetrated so you get the best of both worlds, enjoying the hard and soft corals from the inside out. The experience was made even better when two black-tip reef sharks cruised by. At Daedalus reef, we were blessed with a couple of exciting Oceanic White Tip sightings, as well as the most spectacular anemones and clown fish, which came in abundance. Poor weather conditions meant we didn't spend as much time at Elphinstone reef as planned. However, we were able to squeeze in two dives before finishing the trip at Abu Dabab, a shallower area with bright coral and plenty of turtles. The night dive here was octopus-galore.
If you can, dive liveaboard
If you're after an introduction to liveaboard diving, the Red Sea is a brilliant mid-haul option. Plus, going in April proved to be the perfect antidote to the UK's cold climes. I would go back in a heartbeat. So, if you're thinking of a liveaboard diving holiday, or better yet, a liveaboard holiday in the Red Sea, don't hesitate to get in touch with one of our experts.
